Black Hair: The Unnatural Natural Trend

» 26 May 2010 »

Few things evoke more emotion from a black woman than the subject of her hair.  Traditionally, hair has been one of the major defining characteristics of a black woman.  The Chris Rock documentary “Good Hair” brought this obsession into the consciousness of mainstream America, and folds of women vowed to “go natural” and “free themselves” from the prison of chemical relaxers.  But the actuality is that most seem to have traded one type of jail for another.

The texture of black hair is as diverse and varied as the complexions and personalities of black people themselves.  What is nearly universal is the desire for “good hair”, however you define it.  At the forefront of the trends, waiting to capitalize on the insecurities of women with disposable income, are hair care companies that cater to this desire. These companies promise that their products are natural, pure, and essential to the success of your hair, made from pure Amazonian cocoa butter, French rain water and pixie dust gathered from Zimbabwe (ingredients may vary).  And of course, it costs major money to import pure pixie dust, right?  So a 1 oz jar of magic natural hair formula priced at $25 is a small price to pay for the luxury of realizing your true, natural beauty.  For the record, I’m not saying that these products don’t work…I’m sure they do based on the glowing testimonials they receive.  However, the irony of freeing yourself from costly weaves and chemical treatments, only to voluntarily chain yourself to equally (or more) expensive products is not lost on the rest of us.  For the woman who has vowed to ‘free herself’, you would think that she would recognize that this is a bit much and seek more natural, economical solutions so as not to become enslaved anew.  But alas…not to be outdone by her creamy crackheaded sisters, she often is willing to pay MORE money on her natural hair, just to prove that she is as ‘fly’ as anyone else.   Instead of being a personal journey, it becomes a competition between the perms and the ‘fros.

Not only are the products getting more and more ridiculous…the salons catering to these women are following the trend.  I recently visited a new salon in my area and heard their spiel on their proposed ‘program’ for my hair.  Needless to say, after hearing the prices, I promptly left my complimentary consultation.  I’m happy to report, I haven’t gone bald, my scalp hasn’t developed any lesions, and my hair hasn’t turned green since declining their services (knock on wood!)

I hate when natural hair becomes “in”, because I know that I’m going to get accosted regularly by women who feel they simply must stop and have a conversation with me about my hair.  Having been natural for the past 12 years, I’ve had more than my fair share of inquiries from my chemically altered sisters who want to know “how long did it take to get your hair to loc” when I’m loced, or “did you have to shave your head” when I’m not, followed by the sheepish explanation of how she’s always desired to go natural but “her hair is too nappy” or “she wouldn’t look right with short hair” or some other excuse that caters to her vanity.   5 minutes of my life gone, one conversation at a time.  But it wouldn’t be so bad, if these women actually wanted information.  Instead, what they are doing is displaying some weird sort of perm-shame, and using me to validate their choice.  When I say that yes, you do have to go through a transition period to retrain your hair, she feels justified by her choice to continue with her current routine because the transition would be too much trouble.  And of course we all know how trouble free the alternative is.

I fully support women’s rights to buy whatever ridiculous products they feel will make them beautiful.  But if you go natural for the purpose of fulfilling a trend, rather than a personal decision to be your God-created self, then don’t kid yourself.  Just admit that you want to wear the latest trend and do so proudly.  If you’re going to wear a weave, then by golly wear a weave.  If you want to rock lions and tigers and bears in your hair, there’s a salon in Atlanta that can hook you up.  Just don’t be a sucker, and don’t fall into the “my natural is better than yours because I use better products” trap.  Stop letting what you buy define you, in hair and in life.  And in the immortal words of a very wise Doctor, “Be you, do what you do”.

Related posts:

  1. Au Naturale: A Hair Experiment
  2. Lace Front Wigs: The Real Epidemic Afflicting Black Women
  3. Chideya Sounds Off on the Black, Single & Female Problem
  4. A Message from The Average Black Person

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  • http://www.urbancircle.ning.com Pam

    as a woman with natural hair, i for one don't buy a lot of products that do anything more than moisturize my hair, being that i do put something like conditioner or maybe some good body lotion across my hair i guess that doesn''t make me a natural haired beauty. well I'm not a naturalist, i just don't put the so called chemicals into my hair to change the texture, i wear my hair cut very short close to my scalp in whats known as a ceasar cut, and my hair is whats been known as “good hair” though i hate that term, i say , “yes it is good, it never hurt anybody” but i dig where you are coming from with the so called naturalist who put in the expensive formulas to make the hair do what they want. i guess its not really that many natural hair wearing individuals if you look at it that way………….but i did try a great natural strengthening conditioner………..i was advised to smash a banana, spread it through my hair allowing it to sit for a while, rinse and viola you have a great conditioning going on………just food for thought (literally)

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=502955489 Tenicia Brooks

    I must admit I could do better with the natural remedies. I do use some, but I'm no where near a purist, the kind who only uses juices and berries and whatnot. Having said that, I still don't believe that I have to buy ultra expensive products to get good results on my hair. My daughter's hair is the perfect example, since locs are a bit different, and hers is just natural. I have come to love coconut oil as a moisturizing and styling cream. It is natural, smells great, and does a good job, and it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg to purchase.

  • Queen

    this is a good post. i almost didn't agree with you, but i could not find a thing to disagree with you on. i just wrote a paper on how globalization has brought in a new era in black american hair care and the industry. it is big business, for so many different investors, now world wide. the only point of contention i have with this article is that we all buy into the hype– we buy stuff that people say is going to make us do this that or the third. we are the objects of beauty within an industry and movement of which we are not the owners, suppliers, and creators of our own beauty. others do that for us, and we just eat that shit UP.

    it is not only a problem within the community that needs to be addressed, although for me, this is where it starts, but i am all about a take back of the industry–back to black women in particular. We can't possibly be simply the consumers within this industry- we have to create the image, create the standard, created the output, and the products.

    so many of the companies that are creating these images presently are rich, white, foreign, male — in short NOT black women (bobsaone.org). So if we don't own and create our beauty, how can we help but be subject to the issues that you mention above? It's time to get back to the tenacity of Madame CJ Walker's times…she was not only an advocate for black hair care by blacks as a source of beauty and cosmetics, but she used black hair and black beauty care to enter into the black male, and then white male arenas- n politics, money, and investment- where no black woman had gone before. This only happened when black women were the owners, creators and disseminators of their own beauty (which was recently taken back from white companies like kink-be-gone at the turn of the 19th century…#truestory)

    Anyway all that to say, beyond just choosing natural hair or otherwise, in an effort to be true to ourselves, which is hella important, we also need to choose to be the pioneers and creators of our beauty of on other levels, that lead the way for our black women to break out of the bondage you mention above. I like “be you, do what you do”, but I also like create you, be in charge of that shit, and show others how to do that too.

  • Queen

    sorry that was turn of the 20th century on 19th. pardon me.

  • Natasha J.

    Hi..I began locking my hair 9 months ago.
    The reception to my new look has been overwhelming. Yes. most people “appreciate” my decision to be natural, and of course, I believe the “perm conscious” questions are just part of the experience. See, it's all still virtually new to me, but I can see why you would be somewhat annoyed. Just somewhat…. Let them ask, so what. The fact that these women decided to stop you and talk means something, whether you see that or not. They didn't have to say anything at all.
    In any case, I was an AVID weave wearer for 17 years before I FINALLY gave it up. No, the natural journey is NOT for the faint of heart! It's been beautiful (well, once I got over my silky, long hair hangups), lol. There is a confidence and a feeling of inner success when walking out of my house IN MY OWN HAIR/SKIN. That means something!
    The only problem is that many do feel that natural hair styles are fads and not life journeys, which is false. The bigger problem is that too many of us feel we NEED the weaves to feel and/or be beautiful. That is the saddest realization of all.
    I finally saw the “Good hair” documentary the other day. It was 100% true. We as black women don't own 1 red cent in a multi-billion dollar industry that affects ALL of us directly. Natural or not, we all spend our hard earned dollars at Asian & Indian owned beauty supply stores! It really doesn't matter how “little” we spend, because it all adds up!
    We have to be the only race that operates in “divide and conquer” mode. I know I can get a few people together so we can at least own our own store. It's a start, if nothing else. We have to see the take back of the black woman's hair industry as our business.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=502955489 Tenicia Brooks

    Queen I agree wholeheartedly. Even in the quest to become more true to themselves, I think that black women are starting to lose focus and making it more about fitting and being better than the next woman than defining their own beauty. That is what I tried to convey with the post. When I see natural women start to become cocky about their choice and view their hair as better than the next sister's hair, then we have the same mentality that made so many black women despise their natural hair perpetuating itself all over again. I actually experienced this, when I went into a salon and told them about my current hair regime. These sisters literally paused, as if I'd told them that I use feces to retwist my hair, and then haughtily told me about their superior products. I was saddened that these black women could take something like natural hair and make it so bourgeois, and they were the motivation behind the piece.

    As you stated, we MUST start with taking control over the industry that we spend so many billions of dollars supporting. In order for black women to truly own their beauty, there must emerge a self sufficiency and a trend that allows all women's individual beauty to shine.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=502955489 Tenicia Brooks

    Congratulations Natasha! The journey to become your authentic self is incredibly freeing. Sure, there will be times when you feel like the odd man out, when you are in social situations and everyone else is weaved and wigged…but for me, there is nothing that makes me feel more special than individuality.

    We are all beautiful, but like you said, the choice to go natural is not a fashion statement, and it's not a fad. It should be a celebration of the gifts that the Creator has bestowed upon us as black women, and that includes naps and kinks.

  • http://www.icecreamstyle.com Ayo F

    Hey Tenicia. Love the site. I just got back from Nigeria after 23 years. Took my natural tresses to a salon to get braids. They all bugged out over the fact that i had “virgin hair” They were in shock that i had been natural for 10 years. I could not believe it…in Nigeria..of all places…that you are freaking out that my hair is “natural.” Nigerians tend to follow what we do here in the American west. If everyone is relaxing their hair in America…everyone will relax their hair in Nigeria. Where does the self-love begin?

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=502955489 Tenicia Brooks

    Wow Ayo, that is shocking. I was under the illusion that our sisters in the motherland and in the islands were still embracing their naturalness. That information makes it even more important that American black women, or black women living in America, set an example to the rest of the world and own our beauty and all of the things that make us unique. The self love begins with us, and it is my most sincere wish that all women learn to love themselves the way they are, regardless of color, size, hair texture, or any other superficial attribute.

  • Vanessa

    Well said Queen. Since seeing Aron Renen's “Black Hair Documentery”, I've been frustrated, at the lack of control we have over over “our” hair care industry. I've been more conscience of where I buy my hair products. I'd love for our community to unite and change this. This is our heritage.

  • Vanessa

    Well said Queen. Since seeing Aron Renen's “Black Hair Documentery”, I've been frustrated, at the lack of control we have over over “our” hair care industry. I've been more conscience of where I buy my hair products. I'd love for our community to unite and change this. This is our heritage.

  • http://www.nutrigro.co.uk/ Natural Hair Loss Products

    Great post. I have been searching for this exact info for a while now. I will bookmark it in the public bookmarking sites to get you more traffic.

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  • http://twitter.com/EmDottie Mone't

    THANK YOU! So glad somebody else feels the same way. I've been natural for ten years. Women have always stopped me to ask about my hair, how I got it that way, why don't I use a relaxer blah blah blah. It irks me when people suggest that I should do the relaxed look because that's what's more accepted, just as much as when women decide that they should go natural because it seems to be what's in fashion. NO! Go with what makes you feel good, not with what others' opinions may be…

    Stepping off my soap box now.

  • NaturallyBlack

    While I do understand where you are coming from (at least with regards for the expenses) I have to admit that I do not agree that going natural is more expensive. Its actually cheaper. When I chose to go natural about a year ago, I thought it would be hell to get my hair curled, to keep the curls and to keep my hair healthy and managable. But it isn't. To curl my hair I braid it at night and wet it, then in the morning I loosen the braids (if the hair is dry) and then spray it with holding spray. I use regular panten conditioner and a mouse for when I don't want to curl my hair. I did the math, before whenever I needed to style my hair for events I needed to go to the saloon, where they jam pack my hair with chemical products and I leave with a $75-$100 hair doo that lasts till I take a shower. Going natural saves you that crap. On weekends or days I'm at home, I just have big braids or tie it back no matter how nappy it seems. Then I condition it the day before I leave and braid it and let the curls set in. Going natural is not only healthier for us, but also a great way to bring natural black hair into the forefront of conventional beauty. But I do agree that everyone should do whatever they think is beautiful for them. Its not like other race (women and men) don't put chemicals in their hair. It seems as if only us black women get the negative comments though. I mean I have Asian friends who have to die their hair black consistently and some that actually put relaxer in their hair (but its different than black relaxer, its Asian relaxer…like their's a difference) When it comes to beauty, the Cosmetic industry will merchantalise anything they can, weather its natural or not. I'm not saying one is better/cheaper/ than the other for everyone, but for me braiding my hair by myself every other night and waking up with beautiful natural curly hair is much cheaper and better for my hair. Even though I still use chemical spray to keep the curls up. ^_^

  • BeautifulInBlack

    To be honest Vanessa I buy hair products based on what they do, and not who they were intended for. I don't pay attention to “this is for black people hair” I recently began to use the Treseme conditioner and it works wonders, my mom tried to make me use the Olive Oil one and it doesn't do jack for my hair. I'm sticking to Treseme and Panten for now, I've seen real results in those conditioners and I have thick coarse hair so I need strong conditioners.